The Challenge Event, 1775 - My Clothing

This Saturday was a very busy day for Cori and I. Lots of traveling, dressing up, and talking with all kinds of amazing people. We time traveled from present day to the year 1775 and then to 1941. Phew! Because we did so much I'm going to be breaking this into three posts. :) Just a heads up, this first post is rather long and has lots of pictures.

Our day began bright and early with a trip to Hartwell Tavern at the Minute Man National Park to participate in the Hive's Challenge Event. I really wanted to go last year but was not able to. Check out the Hive's blog for posts on last year's Challenge.

Chatting with a couple lovely ladies at Hartwell Tavern.
Photo by Friends of the Minute Man National Park Facebook page

 This is the description for this year's event.

"Across Two Summers Part II - The Countryside at War
"In the summer of 1775, the people of Massachusetts faced the challenge of supporting an army at war while at the same time trying to provide for their own homes and families. Visit Hartwell Tavern to learn about life during the Siege of Boston. Talk to displaced refugees traveling away from Boston and surrounding communities, as well as Provincial soldiers heading towards the front lines. Enlist in the Massachusetts Army, learn the proper military exercise of the day, help manufacture musket and artillery cartridges, and immerse yourself in another period of time, when nothing less than Liberty was at stake."

Participants in the Challenge are asked to provide documentation for all their clothing which is then placed in a binder for the public to look through. I decided to go as a shoemaker. I wore my blue and white cross-barred gown and brought along my tools and unfinished shoes. Here is my documentation. I will have a separate post for Cori's attire.


Shift – Based on shifts in Costume Close Up by Linda Baumgarten and Fitting and Proper by Sharon Burston. Machine sewn but finished by hand.
Stays – First started in a Hive workshop. Pattern from a pair of 1770s fashionable stays in a private collection. Linen lining and blue worsted outer fabric, leather binding. All hand sewn.
Under petticoat – White linen under petticoat with printed cotton border. Based on a petticoat as seen in Fitting and Proper by Sharon Burston. All hand sewn.

Blue linen striped petticoat – Blue linen and white striped petticoat made of two panels of fabric pleated to narrow waist band. Ties front and back with linen ties, open at sided to allow access to pockets. All hand sewn. The fabric came from Burnley and Trowbridge. I'm kicking myself for not buying more of it at the time. The fabric was a dream to work with! 
Gown – The pattern for this gown was created in Hive workshop, based on original 18^th gown in a private collection. It's made from a blue and white cross-barred linen with matching stomacher - Based on the print Native Meltons by British printmaker Richard Houston (c.1721-1775) after the painting by French artist Philippe Mercier (1689-1760). All hand sewn. I first posted about the gown here.

This picture was taken about 2 years ago but it's a nice close of the gown, bonnet, and neckerchief together.

Neckerchief – "Stolen … Red Ground and spotted with White" - Boston Gazette, February 19, 1770. Also based on a red and white cotton neckerchief as seen in A City Shower, 1764- Museum of London.For more information on handkerchiefs see my post Spotting Handkerchief in Art.

Aprons – Linen check apron, all hand sewn. Print The Jealous Maids in the Lewis Walpole Library, linen check apron in the collection of Colonial Williamsburg. “Said servant took with her … checked apron.” Pennsylvania Gazette 9-20-1775. There are also several examples of check fabric in the "Threads of Feeling" exhibit. Leather workman's apron. As seen in period prints of shoemakers and other tradesmen. The Contented Cobbler Publish'd July 14th 1772 by W. Humphrey Opposite Cecil Court St. Martin's. British Mezzotint Satires in North American Collections. 

White linen cap – Linen cap, common 18th century style with single ruffle, hand sewn with red silk ribbon. Similar to the cap worn in A City Shower, 1764- Museum of London.

Bonnet – Black silk bonnet with a red silk lining made by Hallie Larkin. Common style of the 1770s. Black and red combination inspired by a mid 18^th century runaway servant ad. Similar to the bonnet in a 1772 print called Ladies Maid Purchasing a Leek. Black was the most common color of bonnets in the 18th century. You can read my post on bonnet colors here.

Stockings – Blue cotton stocking. “had on … yarn stockings of a blue color.” Connecticut Gazette, October 13, 1775

Shoes – Leather shoes with “silver” buckets of a style common to the mid 18^th century. Fugawee Shoes.

So, did women actually work as shoemakers in the 18th century? Yes they did! Although it was a far more common trade for men, there were some women such as Elizabeth Shaw making shoes in the Boston area. I first mentioned Elizabeth Shaw in my post here. 

 

The Boston Post Boy & Advertiser, July 20, 1767

"Womens best Lynn made Callimanco Shoes at 36s" Boston Evening Post, April 26, 1765.

“Took with her a bundle of clothes. … a pair of blue worsted shoes with white heels. … She had in her shoes a pair of large silver buckles.” Pennsylvania Packet, December 14, 1782

“Took with her … a pair of leather or purple velvet shoes with square carved yellow shoes buckles.” Pennsylvania Packet, May 22, 1775

“Two pair black cloth shoes.” Pennsylvania Packet, August 23, 1773

“Benjamin and Holton Johnston, Shoemakers from Boston, in Front Street, two doors above Market Street. Take this method to inform the ladies, that they make all sorts of silk and worsted shoes, in the neatest and best manner. They likewise have the best Boston shoes to sell at the very lowest rates. All those that will please to favor them with their custom, may depend on being faithfully served.” Pennsylvania Gazette, May 30, 1765.

Put all above information together and here is what you get! I don't have a wooden tool box so I used a couple baskets to transport my shoes and tools. I was really glad I brought the little table you see, it made a great little work bench.

Not really sure what I'm doing in this picture.

Yum, peaches for lunch!

Photo by Friends of the Minute Man National Park Facebook page

I didn't accomplish much of anything with my shoes as we were only at Hartwell a short time, plus I spent most of the time talking with people. :) I think visitors really enjoyed seeing a little bit about the process of how shoes were made. I need to do some more search on the cost of shoes as that was one of the most common questions I had.

The *almost* finished shoe!

Around 1:00 we headed back to the car and changed in the parking lot (for the second time that day) and drove to Fall River, Mass for a WWII event. That post coming soon, up next is Cori's Challenge Event attire. :) The true challenge of the day was packing clothing for two people for two completely different time periods!

Of Unfinished Projects and Summertime Goals

I was just thinking the other day, it has been a terribly long time since I posted anything 18th century! I've been so caught up in all things vintage, as well as attending fewer 18th century events, that many projects have slipped to the bottom of the "to do" pile. A new cap, linen mitts that I started last spring, and my purple and white cotton gown just to name a few. Not to mention the worsted mustard colored wool I bought when I visited Gettysburg in March for yet another gown. (I couldn't resist it!) I have so many things I want to work on but as I only went to a handful of events last summer, and have yet to go to one this summer (oh the horror!), I found myself lacking the motivation to finish, let alone start new, projects for this time period. But that is changing. There are a couple events coming up later this summer that are just the motivation I need.

Cotton check jacket, linen check apron, and linen petticoat all hand sewn. 2011 visit to Colonial Williamsburg.

I have recently learned that a reunion of sorts is being planned for those of us who took a shoemaking workshop with Brett Walker. I posted about the amazing location for the 2011 workshop here. Due to a busy work schedule at my day job, I'm not sure yet if I will be able to attend. So I'm making plans to spend at least one day with Mr. Walker while he is at Fort Ticonderoga this weekend. The fort is an easy day trip for me and I'm very much looking forward to going. I haven't worn any of my 18th century clothing since last fall! :O Those of you who are new to my blog may not know, but the mid 18th century has been a big focus of mine for a long time. It's only been the last few years that I've begun sewing more vintage and vintage style clothing.

One of the unfinished shoes. Made of blue worsted wool, lined in leather and bound with black silk tape.

The news of the Crispen reunion has got me thinking about my shoes again as well as my many unfinished projects. At least those that are 18th century related, lets not go overboard here. ;) I am one of the world's worst procrastinators. I also have a very bad habit of starting one project then moving on to an another without finishing the first. Just when I think the "to do" pile is getting smaller, something gets added to it. Bad, bad, me. :( But with this pair of shoes it's a little different I promise! This is a project I simply can not complete without the help and guidance of my instructor. Making shoes requires a whole different set of skills. There is some sewing of course, but I've had to learn a variety of new things too; making threads for sewing, working with leather and wood, sharping knives and other tools, etc. It's been a great experience and I can't wait to share more with you. Until then, a couple pictures to peak your interest. :)

Layers of leather are used to build up the instep. Tacks hold them in place while the glue dries. - Shoemaking workshop, summer 2011

Leather toe cap cut and smoothed. After the instep is dry the tacks are removed and it is cut back and smoothed out to match the measurements of my foot. A layer of whittaw is used to cover the dark leather and help protect the fabric of the uppers while on the last. The toe cap is covered as well. - Shoemaking workshop, summer 2011

The other events coming up that have renewed my historic sewing interests are Redcoats and Rebels at Old Sturbridge Village, and the Hive's Challenge Event. I've never been to the OSV event and I missed the challenge event last summer. There is also the possibility of a dressy event in October which is just what I need to get motivated and finally finish updating the trim on my green silk sacque.

So here are a few of my 18th sewing goals for the remainder of the summer.

Things to finish:
- 18th century linen mitts. I really have no excuse here, one is finished and has been for some time now, the other is about 1/2 done. If I bring these to an event I could have them totally done in an hour or two.
- Purple and white cotton gown. It's about 3/4 of the way finished. The skirts need a little work, hemming mainly and the gown needs robings and a piece at the back of the neck. It's soooo close..... My hope is to have this finished for the Challenge event.
- Finish the trim on my green silk sacque.
- Line my 1770s stays. I hate to admit this but I've been wearing my stays for about 3 years now and have yet to put the lining in them, so yeah....
- Create blog posts showing construction details on projects like my ivory silk gown and my gown based on "The Oyster Seller". I posted a little about them here but didn't go into construction details.
- And last but not least, my shoes.

A Female Shoe Maker in Boston

Working on a pair of shoes at Eastfield Village.
Photo by Rebecca of A Fashionable Frolic

Behold, a female shoe maker!
I love finding evidence of women in "non-traditional" trades. Shoe making in the 18th century, like many trades, was typically a trade for men. However, if one looks hard enough there is primary documentation for women working not only as shoemakers, but as stay makers, silversmiths, tinsmiths, and even blacksmiths. Some women even owned and ran their own shops. (See CW's article on women's trades here.)

Often times a master shoemaker would employee women to sew the uppers (the fabric portions) of shoes. This type of sewing didn't require any real knowledge of shoe making and could be done quickly and easily by anyone skilled with a needle and thread. In the case of Elizabeth Shaw, it would appear that that she was doing more then simple piece work.

Originally from Europe, Elizabeth is announcing to the public that she is setting up shop to make and mend men's and women's shoes "in the neatest Manner. ... at her Shop in Long Lane" The advertisement for Elizabeth's shop is dated July 20, 1767.

The Boston Post Boy & Advertiser, July 20, 1767

In all likely hood, I'm sure her rates for shoes are very reasonable given that "Callimanco, Russell and Leather" were some of the most common - and cheapest - materials for making women's shoes. It's the pretty silk and brocade shoes that show up most often in museums and at auction. These "everyday" shoes are hard to find today but fortunately there are a few examples in museums.

Red-pink glazed wool shoes, c. 1765 - Historic Deerfield

Shoes, 1780-1790, Leather, linen, wool. These would have been "everyday" shoes for many English women. Snowshill Manor © National Trust / Richard Blakey

I thought it would be interesting to find an old map of Boston to see if I could find exactly where Elizabeth Shaw' shop was located. A search for early maps of Boston led me to the Massachusetts Historical Society. They have over 100 manuscript and printed maps of Boston as well as other towns and counties in Massachusetts. The closest map I could find was an 1835 re-issued map by George G. Smith of a map originally engraved and printed by Francis Dewing of Boston in 1722. I can't post an image of the map here but if you follow this link you can view the map online. Click on the zoom feature to find Long Lane. What is neat about this map is that it shows alterations that occurred in Boston between 1722 and 1769. Only a handful of building appear on the Long Lane. Could one of those have been Elizabeth's shop?

Below is another map of Boston dated 1743. You can clearly see Long Lane (marked Long L.) in the lower left of the map.

Detail of 1743 map of Boston by William Price, showing the Financial District and vicinity

This is what Long Lane looks like today.

Long Lane, now Federal Street in Boston's Financial District

Random history facts of the day - Revolutionary War hero Henry Knox was born in a house on Long Lane in 1750. And, in 1788, Long Lane was renamed Federal Street.

Shoemaking Workshop - Part 1, The Location

I've talked a little bit about my shoemaking experience and will be sharing more soon. But before I go into any details about the workshop itself, I thought I would first share a little bit about the location where the shoemaking workshop was held. 

Last August, Mr. Walker, a shoemaker at Colonial Williamsburg, held a week-long shoemaking workshop at Eastfield Village near Nassau, New York. Eastfield Village is the creation of Don Carpentier. Similar to places like Old SturbridgeVillage in Massachusetts, Eastfield Village is a collection of historic homes and outbuildings that date from the late 18^th century to about 1840.

        

“Eastfield is the creation and life work of Don Carpentier, who has been collecting and reconstructing the stuff of everyday life between 1787 and 1840 since 1958. The village is called Eastfield because Don's father gave him eight acres of woodlot near the east field of the family farm in 1971 for the first of his reconstructions: a blacksmith's shop (somebody's pigpen before Don dismantled and hauled it here). There are now more that 20 buildings, including the whale of a tavern.” - From the Eastfield Village website

Brown General Store moved from Minaville, NY,

Each of the buildings are furnished with an amazing collection of antique and reproduction furniture, cooking ware, tools, books, and much more! The village has a fully functional blacksmiths shop, tinsmiths shop, and general store. I spent part of one afternoon exploring a few of the buildings. I didn’t get to go into the general store but did peak through the window!

 

Eastfield Village is privately owned by Mr. Carpentier and it is normally not open to the public. However, a series of different workshops are held on site each year for those interested in learning historic trades and historic preservation techniques. 

 Here’s a look at the workshops that were offered in 2011. 

Interior of the Old Tavern

There were nine people at the shoemaking workshop in August but not everyone was able to stay for the full week. Most of us stayed did on site. Our home for the week was the spacious William Briggs Tavern. All of our meals were prepared in the tavern’s kitchen over the fire. There was a large soapstone sink with running water (cold only!) for washing dishes. There was very limited electricity in the building; only a few outlets in one or two rooms and no electric lights. The first night I was there we had a major thunder storm roll through. Mr. Carpentier came into the tavern to get some extra candles and told us the power had gone out. None of us had noticed. We were sitting snug by the fire with a few candles for light enjoying good conversations! 

William Briggs Tavern, my home for the week!

Interior of William Briggs Tavern

Our workshop space was in the ballroom of the William Briggs Tavern. The ballroom was large enough that each attendee had his or her own work space. We had several tables set up and plenty of natural light to work by. During the week, Mr. Walker, who in addition to making shoes for Colonial Williamsburg also teaches one of their weekly dance programs, taught us a few 18th century country dances.

Ballroom inside William Briggs Tavern

Over all it was a wonderful week. Filled with good food, great company, and many wonderful memories! I hope very much to be able to work with everyone again at some point in the future. 

No beer in the kitchen and do dogs in bed!!

Trending - 18th Century Shoes

Last summer I was fortunate enough to be able to take a shoe making workshop with Mr. Walker, one of the shoe makers at Colonial Williamsburg. (More on the workshop later. If interested, Diary of a Mantua Maker has some excellent posts about her shoe making experience here.)

In doing some shoe-related research since the workshop, I started noticing a trend in a particular type of fabric used in 18th century shoes. The fabric is silk with a small diamond, or spotted, shaped pattern to it. I have counted at least six pairs of shoes, mostly in ivory, made from this type of fabric. But I'm sure there are many others out there.

Manchester City Galleries, 1947.918

MFA, 43.1724 a,b

MFA 44.531a-b date, 1780-85

 It may be hard to tell in the images here, but these examples all have that small diamond pattern. I have found that many online galleries, such as the MET and MFA, have fabulous zoom features. Here is a good upclose image of the diamond pattern, actually more like spots in this example. It's also a nice closeup of the detail on the toe. The design appears to be worked in small sequins, or "spangles", instead of embroidered with silk thread like the examples seen above.

MET 13.49.30a, b

MET 13.49.30a, b

One of the things I find fascinating about these shoes is that they all date to the second half of the 18th century or later. There are definite distinctions in each decade of the 18th century, as there is are in every century. In the 1770s and 1780s smaller prints and stripes became fashionable. No more large floral styles of the 1740s and 1750s; although you do see many examples of gowns restyled using older fabric. (Hallie has some great posts about that here, here, and here.) It makes sense then that the fabric for shoes would follow that of the gowns they would be worn with. Another trend I have noticed in these later 18th century shoes, is a complimentary color being used for the heels and straps. Here are two examples. I adore the black and pink!

Manchester City Galleries, 1968.71

V &A, T.472&A-1913

Here is another example in a lovely mint green. Very simple but very pretty too.

MET 2009.300.4373

Eventually I will finish my own pair of 18th century shoes. (And blog about them.) For my first pair (I do plan on making more than one pair, someday ;) ) I selected a blue worsted wool. The wool is much easier to work with than silk for an inexperience shoe maker. Or so I'm told and more than happy to believe. :) Any costumer who has worked with silk taffeta can tell you it can be a bit fussy at times! In any case, if I do decide to reproduce any of the above example I think I've already found the perfect fabric.

Off White Silk Figured Taffeta from Renaissance Fabrics

It's available in a couple of colors but the ivory could be dyed to any color. I've ordered from Renaissance Fabrics before and really like their silks.