The Finished Gown - Purple and White

Hello all,
As promised, here are some pictures of my finished gown. The gown made it's debut at the Rebels and Redcoats event at Old Sturbridge Village over the weekend. This gown has been on my project list, half finished, for about a year and a half. The fabric was purchased from William Booth Draper back in March of 2012. I've posted on occasion about this gown. You can read all of these posts here. The two posts people might find the most interested are my research post on purple and white fabrics in the 18th century and the one showing a painting of a gown with a similar print.

The back view. I spent a lot of time playing with the fabric until I was happy with the arrangement of the back pleats. I didn't want the floral design to look too chopped up. Back pleats are much easier with stripes and solids for sure! The flowers didn't match up perfectly but I didn't really expect them too. The floral design on the robings and stomacher match up pretty well so I'm happy about that. :)

And the front. Closed front gowns begin to appear in the 1770s but there is some debate as to when exactly. There is an interesting article on the subject here. Personally, I like the look of the open or stomacher front gowns so that is what I decided to make. They are versatile and work for a range of dates from the 1740s to 1770s. Of course the width of the back pleats, cuff size, and other details change. I still need to add cuffs to this gown.

I wore my new gown with a semi-shear cotton apron and matching neckerchief. They are both very white, making the gown seem off white in comparison. My black silk bonnet was made for me by the wonderful Hallie Larkin of At the Sign of the Golden Scissors. Hallie makes custom bonnets but also has a pattern available for making your own. You can find her shop here.

And finally, I picture of Rebecca and I together lol! Rebecca was wearing a lovely red and white gown of her own creation. I believe she is working on a blog post about it. Rebecca and her sister Ashley co-write A Fashionable Frolick. These are two of the lovely ladies I met during the first part of my 18th century shoemaking adventures. Ashley was not able to make it to OSV this year. Hopefully the next time we meet we can get a photo of the three of us. :) Check out A Fashionable Frolick out for a great selection of photos of OSV.

Photo from Rebecca of A Fashionable Frolick

Rebecca also sent me the link for this photo. I took part in a fashion show called the Runaway Runway hosted by the Ladies of Refined Taste. A group of us posed as runaway servants to help show case the clothing of working-class people of the 1770s using descriptions from 1770s runaway advertisements. Cori also took part in the show. Part of his "character" required the application of a "proper hair mole." Ewww!

Attaching the mole. Photo by Irina Huynh

Photo by Irina Huynh

Fashion plates for 1814

Here are some fashion plates for 1814, the same year as the attack on Fort Cassin. Most of these plates come from the fabulous site Dames a la Mode. Enjoy!

 My goodness. Have some feathers on your hat!

Journal des Dames et des Modes, 1814

La Belle Assemblee, June 1814. “Blucher bonnet and spencer”

La Belle Assemblee, The Russian and Prussian Bonnet and Pelisse, July 1814

 These two gowns are very similar. Both are relatively simple but very pretty. And I love military shako style hat! I can't decide if the check piece on the left gown is all one piece of fabric or a separate sash and neckerchief. It could be a large neckerchief that wraps around the front of the body. Too bad there is not front view. 

Ackermann’s Repository, Walking Dress, October 1814

Journal des Dames et des Modes, 1814

A Soft Wrap Corset

This soft wrap style corset was listed for sale, and has since been sold, by Vintage Textile. Unfortunately, at the time I saved these pictures I didn't think to copy all the information that accompanied them. I believe the date listed for this garment was 1800 to 1810, but it could have been as late as 1820. It's made of cotton and is entirely hand stitched. Note to self, in the future save all information!

Update 8/14/2012 - I searched my files and found that I did save the information originally listed with this corset on Vintage Textile! Here it is:

Rare soft wrap corset, c.1810-1820

Some early corsets (stays) are prized by collectors because they are elaborately embellished; others are valued for their rare form. This soft, wrap-style under garment is a special find for the collector who already has the more typical corded style with center busk.

Our soft wrap corset was likely meant more for modesty under a sheer dress than for significant support. The style, which is rarely found, came from a New England collection.

The corset is fashioned from ivory cotton and is completely hand stitched. Gathered bust inserts and triangular side-hip inserts are the only shaping. The corset is laced only at the upper back opening. Waistline ties wrap around and pin in front.

The condition is excellent.

It measures: 32" bust, 27" waist, 32" hip, and 16" from shoulder to hem

Source - Vintage Textile

This style corset would have been worn by a lady who needed minimal support. There are small gussets for the bust as well at gussets at the hips. The straps are well out of the way to accommodate the broad necklines of the time period. Also, notice the lack of a busk pocket on this corset.

Source - Vintage Textile

Gussets for bust. Source - Vintage Textile

Detail of back lacing. Source - Vintage Textile

Note the small side gussets at the hips. Source - Vintage Textile

In the future, I may try to make one of these for myself as it looks pretty simple as well as comfortable. I do have a few more picture of this corset that I can post if people are interested. 

Preparing for 1812 event ... some research

1811 illustration  - Image source

My first War of 1812 event, Attack on Fort Cassin, is now a week away. In preparation for this event, as mentioned in an earlier post, I've been doing some research and working on a new set of clothes. I haven't completed as much as I would have liked due to lack of time, and well, an almost complete shift of gears to the 20th century. Most of my posts lately have focused on 1930s and 1940s related topics and I do apologies to those of you who follow this blog mainly for those earlier topics.

Because of time restraints and because *some* of my 18th century garments will work, for now, I decided the most important articles of clothing to make first were a new corset and a gown. But more on those projects later. Today is a research sharing day.. 

So what do undergarments of the early 19th century (1800 to 1820) look like? As with the 18th century, undergarments help shape the rest of the outfit. The shift, or chemise, of the early 19th century is very similar to those of the 18th century. The biggest differences are the sleeves, they become shorter and tighter in fit, and the necklines. Still made mostly from linen, you do see some cotton shifts as well.

Early 19C Linen Chemise, MFA

The shape and style of stays/corsets changed dramatically between the end of the 18th century and the beginning of the 19th century. Most women wore some form of stays underneath their gowns. They were either short stays (transition stays) or a fuller body stay with cording instead of boning. These longer stays could be very simple like the pair below, or have very decorative cording. The cording was pretty but also gave a bit of extra support. Like 18th century stays, they also supported the body and lifted the bust. There was even a wrap style very similar to today's bra. Here's an example from the V&A. And another at the MET. A long piece of wood or bone, called a busk, was inserted into the front of the stays to give support. I know of several examples in museums which are beautifully carved.

Early 19C Stays, MFA

Image source

19th century busks - Christies

Over the stays was worn a bodiced petticoat or a petticoat held up with straps. My understanding is that bodiced petticoat did not have any boning as suggestion in some commercially available sewing patterns. For less, ahem, well endowed women like myself, a bodiced petticoat could provide enough support and thus eliminate the need for stays. What is not clear to me is whether a bodiced petticoat was ever worn in place of both shift and stays. I suppose for those taking the regency fashions to the extreme, this was possible but not for the everyday, practical lady.

Book cover of Napoleon and the Empire of Fashion: 1795-1815  - Clearly, this lady isn't wearing much under her gown.

Bodiced petticoat back, 
 National Trust Inventory Number 1359303 

Bodiced petticoat front,
National Trust Inventory Number 1359303

Petticoat with straps. Image source. Does anyone know where this is originally from?

There is a great example of a bodiced petticoat at the MET. Here is another example from the National Trust, although a bit latter, dated 1830.

A neckerchief or a chemisette was worn to fill in the neckline of a gown for day wear. Chemisetts appear to be more common than a neckerchief and were plain, as seen in the first example, or had multiple ruffles at the neckline.

Chemisett, MET

Chemisette. Batiste of linen. America or England, 1810-20.

Preparing for an 1812 event ... eventually

Ladies Magazine January 1812  London

As far as my living history hobby goes, my main focus is the 1750s to 1770s. However, like many of my reenacting friends, I am beginning to take a more serious interest in the early 19th century. Specifically the years 1800 to about 1820. Myself and a group of friends are working to create a new unit representing the 1st Battalion of 27th (Inniskilling) Regiment of Foot with the goal of attending the bicentennial of the Battle of Waterloo to be held in Belgium in 2015.
 
With the bicentennial of the War of 1812 being commemorated in New York, New England, and Canada over the next couple of years there will be many opportunities to attend related events. My first War of 1812 event will be in August at the Lake Champlain Maritime Museum.

So what exactly does that mean for me? Well, a whole new wardrobe! Which excites me and fills me with dread all at the same time. It's exciting because I love the research involved in planning a new outfit, fabric shopping, and sewing. However, I dread this task because it does mean lots of research and sewing. I'm not as familiar with the 1812 era as I am with that of the 18th century. And when I say "a whole new wardrobe", I mean exactly that. There are few items of clothing that I use for 18th century events that will work for 1812. This is because the fashions of the 18teens change drastically from those of the 1750s to 1770s.

Fashions of 1740 compared to those of 1807. Engraving by Charles Williams

Fashion plate of English and French costumes for 1815

So what will I be able to use from my 18th century clothing? The same shift - at least for now. The same stockings and handkerchiefs and that's really about it. My bonnet, mitts, and cloak are "close enough" it get me through my first events.

What will I need that's new? A shift (eventually), stays, under petticoat, gown, cap, chemisette, spencer or pelisse for cooler events, and shoes. That's a lot of sewing!

Silk damask pelisse, c.1815-20, Vintage Textiles

There are several commercial patterns available for gowns, stays, etc. Like those of any historic period, some patterns seem to be better than others. I would like to avoid purchasing new patterns so I think my plan for now will be to draft my own. I'll most likely use one of the gowns in Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion I. I would like to make a bib front gown as I think it will be easy to put on without assistance, although I do like the look of the gowns that close in the back. Below is a nice example of a bib front gown from Vintage Textiles.

Silk faille, bib-front dress, c.1800-1810, Vintage Textiles

Silk faille, bib-front dress, c.1800-1810

Stays will still be an issue but I've pretty much mastered the art of putting on a pair of back lacing stays by myself in a tent. :) I plan to use the pattern for stays provided by Katherine on her blog The Fashionable Past. These are closer to 1820 then 1812 but I think they be a good make do pair to get me started. Of course all this sewing will have to wait until I finish a few other projects.

For those of you who have already created 1812 era clothing I have a few questions:
-What patterns did you use (or create yourself) to make your clothing and what did you like or dislike about those patterns?
-Which type of gown do you find easier to make and/or wear (bib front or back closing)?
-What is your favorite thing about the Regency time period?