So You Want to be a WAVES Reenactor

So you want to be a WAVES reenactor. How do you start building an impression? Where do you get your uniform? What do you need to get started? What are some basic resources? This blog post, along with the rest of my summer WAVES series, will help you get started.

How to Build an Accurate WAVES Living History Impression.

Before we dive in, let me start by saying this as a bit of a disclaimer. I won't lie to you, or try and sugar coat things. Building a WAVES impression, or any women's WWII military impression for that matter, is NOT CHEAP. Before you buy anything, I urge you to do tons of research, ask lots of questions and shop around. (It took me nearly three years to track down all the pieces I needed for the standard blue uniform.) Unlike other women's WWII impressions, no one is reproducing WAVES uniforms. That means almost everything you need for your uniform will be the real deal. (I see this as both good and bad, but more on that later.) It means tracking down a uniform that not only is your size, but also in good enough condition to be worn. These items are 70+ years old after all!

A full uniform, i.e. the standard blue jacket (sometimes called a tunic) and matching skirt, hat, tie, and blouse can cost somewhere in the neighborhood of $200 to $350. Add shoes (vintage or repro) and the purse and you are talking another $200 easily. (I've seen the purses alone sell between $100 and $300 depending on the seller and condition of the purse.) For some reason the prices on Ebay for WAVES items have sky rocketed in recent years! Some of the most sought after pieces, such as the seersucker uniforms and the summer whites, have sold for ridiculous prices. This is where shopping around, networking with others in the know, and setting yourself a budget can be really helpful. Don't despair, because in time the right pieces will find you!!

- - I don't say any of this to scare people away from the impression, I just want to be as honest and upfront as I can. I hate seeing new people in the hobby spend their hard earned money on incorrect items or things that just can't be used. Don't fear! There ARE ways that you can portray a WAVE that won't break the piggy bank. - -

So, let's get started!!

Source - Photo #: 80-G-40624 WAVES recruiting activities
Ensign May Herrmann talks to two young women concerning enlistment in the Navy Women's Reserve, at the Officer Procurement office, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, 30 October 1942.
Official U.S. Navy Photograph, now in the collections of the National Archives.

Source - Photo #: 80-G-40692 "WAVES and SPARS Day", New York City
New WAVES and SPARS take the oath of enlistment in a ceremony held in front of New York City Hall, 8 February 1943.
Official U.S. Navy Photograph, now in the collections of the National Archives.

Source - Photo #: NH 95372 Navy WAVES training school, Iowa State Teachers College, Cedar Falls, Iowa

Newly-arrived WAVES recruits pose for a group portrait at the school, before the arrival of their uniforms, January 1943.
Shirley Feldstein (Bell) is 3rd from right in the front row, with a white name tag visible on her coat.
She comments, on the reverse of the original print: "We all look like penguins ready for a slide in the snow".
Donation of Shirley Feldstein Bell.
U.S. Naval Historical Center Photograph.

The easiest and least expensive way to start your WAVES impression is to wear 1940s civilian clothing along with an enlistment pin. The shop Peachy Keen sells them for a few dollars. (They also sell a bunch of other cool stuff so be sure to look through the whole shop!) If you have an interest in WWII reenacting, chances are you already have a basic 1940s outfit. If not, start with a pair 1940s style high waist pants or an A line skirt and a basic 1940s blouse. Add some basic accessories and you are on your way!

If you sew, I highly recommend Wearing History's Smooth Sailing Togs. Go with the e-pattern if you are really on a budget. A simple, but well put together civilian outfit, with a handful of period correct accessories, will take you a long way and will work for many WWII era living history impressions.

By adding a WAVES enlistment pin, you can portray a new WAVES recruit on your way to basic training while you continue your research and save up for those first uniform pieces!

Smooth Sailing Trousers (shown with Smooth Sailing Blouse AND Blouse from Sailor Girl Playsuit)
Sports Togs Paper Pattern: http://wearinghistory.clothing/smooth-sailing-1930s-sports-togs-pattern/
Epattern:
Sports Togs A: http://wearinghistory.clothing/e-pattern-size-pack-a-smooth-sailing-1930s-sports-togs-pattern/
Sports Togs B: http://wearinghistory.clothing/e-pattern-size-pack-b-smooth-sailing-1930s-sports-togs-pattern/

Pins available through Peachy Keen

Shoes and blouses are the easiest places to save a few pennies. Look around on Ebay and Etsy for good deals on vintage shoes but also check your local antique shops, thrift shops and flea markets. Places like Amazon offer basic black oxfords at lower prices but watch the height and shape of heels as many are not period correct. However, if you can grab a basic, so-so correct pair for say, $25 or $30 do it. You can always upgrade later. WAVES shoes, worn with everything except the white uniform, should be a plain black lace up oxford style with low heeled (1" to 1 /12") and closed toe. Though some women wore privately purchased shoes that had a small amount of perforations (decoration), try is go as plain as possible. The standard issued shoes were plain, and yes, kind of ugly.

The best option on the market right now for reproduction oxfords are the O.A.O. Oxfords from All Heels on Duty. The are a direct copy of WWII women's military footwear, are solidly made, and super comfortable. These will serve you well for everyday vintage wear as well as both your 1940s civilian and military impressions. (I hear their next style will be the military heeled pumps!!)

Imaging showing a WAVE polishing her standard issued oxfords.

Style A is want you want to look for, though a slightly lower heel would be good. Image from Glamourdaze

White cotton blouses (worn with both the blue and white WAVES uniforms) can be long or be short sleeved, with a yoke if possible, and free of any kind of trim or embellishments. The most important thing for the blouses is the collar shape. It should be pointed and the blouse must button at the neck to allow it to be worn with the tie.

Early war ties for the WAVES are two pieces and button at the sides of the neck under the collar. You can add these buttons to a new blouse in a flash. Another thing to keep in mind if you are on a tight budget is that your reproduction white blouse and shoes can double for civilian wear! Score!

Blouse from Nudeedudee on Etsy

Notes on Sewing Your Own Uniforms

There are no patterns on the market for WAVES uniforms, though a highly skilled seamstress can draft patterns from originals.

As these are military uniforms, the materials used and construction details are very specific! Finding the correct materials for the blue wool uniforms and the cotton seersucker uniforms will be challenging but not completely impossible. I highly recommend examining originals (or high res photos) to gather information about the cut/fit and fabrics used. Invest in an original hat (overseas/garrison or soft crown with the WAVES tally), patches for the collar and buttons to complete the look if you are sewing your own inform. These will help immensely with giving an authentic look and feel. You can also take these items with you to fabric stores to help guide your search for fabric. Both the overseas/garrison caps in wool and seersucker, as well as the seersucker rating patches are the same materials as the rest of the uniforms. The blue rating patches for the most part are the same too.

Ordering fabrics online for any sewing project can be frustrating, so I highly recommend ordering fabric swatches first to match the correct color and weave.

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I hope this mini introduction into WAVES uniforms is helpful! Our next WAVES post will cover research materials. Future posts will also go into more detail about uniforms, how they are worn and what to look for when shopping for originals!

Have a research question about the WAVES? Ask away! 

WAVES - Women Accepted for Volunteer Emergency Service (Blog Series)

Hello all, 

Wow, is it really February already? I'm OK with that because it means spring is just around the corner, and I'm ready for some warmer weather. One of the things I mentioned in my last post, one of the things all be working on in 2018 is sharing more information about the WAVES during WWII.
This is the first of several planned posts. To start, I thought I would give a brief overview of the WAVES and some basic facts. Later on I will have some more in-depth posts that discuss uniforms, various jobs, personal experiences of WAVES as well as what it is like to be a WAVES reenactor. I will be teaming up with my friend Sara from the Canteen Cowboy on some of these. I hope you will follow along!  

Pinterest

LCDR McAfee while director of the WAVES - Source

The WAVES (Women Accepted for Volunteer Emergency Service) program was created in July 30, 1942 as the need for additional military personnel grew during World War II. The WAVES were an all-woman division of the U.S. Navy with its members holding the same rank and ratings as male personnel. WAVES also received equal pay and were subject to the same military discipline as male personnel. 

The Women's Reserve of the Coast Guard (SPARS) was created on Nov. 23, 1942 "to expedite the war effort by providing for releasing officers and men for duty at sea and their replacement by women in the shore establishment of the Coast Guard". The first 153 enlisted SPARs and 15 SPAR officers were former WAVES who agreed to be discharged from the Navy and join the Coast Guard.

WAVES and SPARS duties were restricted to the continental U.S. until late in 1944, when overseas service was finally authorized for the WAVES. Even then the WAVES were restricted to the U.S. territories of Alaska and Hawaii. While many WAVES filled traditionally female secretarial and clerical jobs, thousands more served pushed the gender barrier and took on duties in the aviation community, Judge Advocate General Corps, medical professions, communications, intelligence, science and technology.  Aviation Machinist's Mates, Aviation Metalsmiths, Control Tower Operators, Aerographer's Mates, Link Trainer Instructors, and Parachute Riggers are just a few of the duties performed by WAVES during the war.

At the end of World War II, there were over 8,000 female officers and as many as 80,000 enlisted WAVES, equaling roughly 2-1/2 percent of the Navy's total strength.

Fast Facts

•  In August 1942, Mildred McAfee, was sworn in as a Naval Reserve Lt. Commander, becoming the first woman commissioned as an officer of the U.S. Navy. 
• Within the first year, over 27,000 women joined the WAVES. 
• The notable New York fashion house, Mainbocher, designed the WAVES uniforms. The design services were secured through the efforts of Mrs. James V. Forrestal, wife of the Assistant Secretary of the Navy. 
• By mid-1944, the WAVES began accepting African-American women. Harriet Ida Pickens and Frances Wills became the Navy's first, and only, African-American WAVES officers in December 1944. Approximately one in every 36 women who enlisted and trained for the WAVES was an African-American. 
• As many as a third of all WAVES were assigned to naval aviation. These women fixed aircraft, packed parachutes, provided weather information, served as link trainer instructors, gunnery instructors, coordinated air traffic from control towers and a performed host of other aviation-related jobs. 
• By 1945, enlisted women could choose from a total of 38 different ratings in the Navy. Almost every shore establishment had WAVES on active duty fulfilling necessary military work of every kind, from general office workers and supply accounts specialists to film projectionists and drivers to dental prosthetic technicians. At the Navy Department headquarters in Washington, D.C., over half of all service personnel were WAVES. Approximately 70 percent of the Bureau of Naval Personnel was composed of WAVES. Large numbers of WAVES were assigned to the Hospital Corps where they participated in Navy recovery, therapy and rehabilitation programs. 
• By the end of World War II, the WAVES consisted of 8,000 female officers and close to 80,000 enlisted women.
•  By September of 1946, the majority of WAVES were either discharged or released to inactive duty. 
• Despite their involvement in World War II and post-war, the organization was disbanded in 1948 when the Women’s Armed Services Integration Act was passed.  This new law permitted women permanent status within the armed forces.  Despite this change, the acronym WAVES continued to be used for almost 30 more years.    

WAVES as a Living History Impression

Begining my adventures in researching a member of the WAVES as a living history impression. This is actually something I have been working on for awhile now but just getting around to sharing. I have been collecting images, making lists of where to shop for paperwork and uniform items and have picked up a few things for myself. Here is a quick look at some of the paperwork I found. I'm hoping to invest in a scanner so I can make copies of things.