Preparing for 1812 event ... some research

1811 illustration  - Image source

My first War of 1812 event, Attack on Fort Cassin, is now a week away. In preparation for this event, as mentioned in an earlier post, I've been doing some research and working on a new set of clothes. I haven't completed as much as I would have liked due to lack of time, and well, an almost complete shift of gears to the 20th century. Most of my posts lately have focused on 1930s and 1940s related topics and I do apologies to those of you who follow this blog mainly for those earlier topics.

Because of time restraints and because *some* of my 18th century garments will work, for now, I decided the most important articles of clothing to make first were a new corset and a gown. But more on those projects later. Today is a research sharing day.. 

So what do undergarments of the early 19th century (1800 to 1820) look like? As with the 18th century, undergarments help shape the rest of the outfit. The shift, or chemise, of the early 19th century is very similar to those of the 18th century. The biggest differences are the sleeves, they become shorter and tighter in fit, and the necklines. Still made mostly from linen, you do see some cotton shifts as well.

Early 19C Linen Chemise, MFA

The shape and style of stays/corsets changed dramatically between the end of the 18th century and the beginning of the 19th century. Most women wore some form of stays underneath their gowns. They were either short stays (transition stays) or a fuller body stay with cording instead of boning. These longer stays could be very simple like the pair below, or have very decorative cording. The cording was pretty but also gave a bit of extra support. Like 18th century stays, they also supported the body and lifted the bust. There was even a wrap style very similar to today's bra. Here's an example from the V&A. And another at the MET. A long piece of wood or bone, called a busk, was inserted into the front of the stays to give support. I know of several examples in museums which are beautifully carved.

Early 19C Stays, MFA

Image source

19th century busks - Christies

Over the stays was worn a bodiced petticoat or a petticoat held up with straps. My understanding is that bodiced petticoat did not have any boning as suggestion in some commercially available sewing patterns. For less, ahem, well endowed women like myself, a bodiced petticoat could provide enough support and thus eliminate the need for stays. What is not clear to me is whether a bodiced petticoat was ever worn in place of both shift and stays. I suppose for those taking the regency fashions to the extreme, this was possible but not for the everyday, practical lady.

Book cover of Napoleon and the Empire of Fashion: 1795-1815  - Clearly, this lady isn't wearing much under her gown.

Bodiced petticoat back, 
 National Trust Inventory Number 1359303 

Bodiced petticoat front,
National Trust Inventory Number 1359303

Petticoat with straps. Image source. Does anyone know where this is originally from?

There is a great example of a bodiced petticoat at the MET. Here is another example from the National Trust, although a bit latter, dated 1830.

A neckerchief or a chemisette was worn to fill in the neckline of a gown for day wear. Chemisetts appear to be more common than a neckerchief and were plain, as seen in the first example, or had multiple ruffles at the neckline.

Chemisett, MET

Chemisette. Batiste of linen. America or England, 1810-20.

Preparing for an 1812 event ... eventually

Ladies Magazine January 1812  London

As far as my living history hobby goes, my main focus is the 1750s to 1770s. However, like many of my reenacting friends, I am beginning to take a more serious interest in the early 19th century. Specifically the years 1800 to about 1820. Myself and a group of friends are working to create a new unit representing the 1st Battalion of 27th (Inniskilling) Regiment of Foot with the goal of attending the bicentennial of the Battle of Waterloo to be held in Belgium in 2015.
 
With the bicentennial of the War of 1812 being commemorated in New York, New England, and Canada over the next couple of years there will be many opportunities to attend related events. My first War of 1812 event will be in August at the Lake Champlain Maritime Museum.

So what exactly does that mean for me? Well, a whole new wardrobe! Which excites me and fills me with dread all at the same time. It's exciting because I love the research involved in planning a new outfit, fabric shopping, and sewing. However, I dread this task because it does mean lots of research and sewing. I'm not as familiar with the 1812 era as I am with that of the 18th century. And when I say "a whole new wardrobe", I mean exactly that. There are few items of clothing that I use for 18th century events that will work for 1812. This is because the fashions of the 18teens change drastically from those of the 1750s to 1770s.

Fashions of 1740 compared to those of 1807. Engraving by Charles Williams

Fashion plate of English and French costumes for 1815

So what will I be able to use from my 18th century clothing? The same shift - at least for now. The same stockings and handkerchiefs and that's really about it. My bonnet, mitts, and cloak are "close enough" it get me through my first events.

What will I need that's new? A shift (eventually), stays, under petticoat, gown, cap, chemisette, spencer or pelisse for cooler events, and shoes. That's a lot of sewing!

Silk damask pelisse, c.1815-20, Vintage Textiles

There are several commercial patterns available for gowns, stays, etc. Like those of any historic period, some patterns seem to be better than others. I would like to avoid purchasing new patterns so I think my plan for now will be to draft my own. I'll most likely use one of the gowns in Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion I. I would like to make a bib front gown as I think it will be easy to put on without assistance, although I do like the look of the gowns that close in the back. Below is a nice example of a bib front gown from Vintage Textiles.

Silk faille, bib-front dress, c.1800-1810, Vintage Textiles

Silk faille, bib-front dress, c.1800-1810

Stays will still be an issue but I've pretty much mastered the art of putting on a pair of back lacing stays by myself in a tent. :) I plan to use the pattern for stays provided by Katherine on her blog The Fashionable Past. These are closer to 1820 then 1812 but I think they be a good make do pair to get me started. Of course all this sewing will have to wait until I finish a few other projects.

For those of you who have already created 1812 era clothing I have a few questions:
-What patterns did you use (or create yourself) to make your clothing and what did you like or dislike about those patterns?
-Which type of gown do you find easier to make and/or wear (bib front or back closing)?
-What is your favorite thing about the Regency time period?