Sunday Shoe Spectacle - Fitting Shoes

Thanks so much for the tremendous feedback on my 1940s beachwear post. I'll have another post coming later this week about the location where the photos were taken.

But now, welcome to another of Sunday Shoe Spectacle! Today I have some tips on shopping for and fitting vintage shoes. This is a revival of a post a wrote back in 2012 when I first started blogging.

The Lady Eve - Glamourdaze

- Are you looking for a particular style to meet the requirements of a particular period of time? And if so, what style? Be sure to do your homework so you know what you are looking at when you start shopping. Many sellers are very knowledgeable but sometimes dates and style names can be listed incorrectly.
- How often do you plan to wear the shoes? If you want a pair of shoes to wear every day, vintage might not be the way to go. But for special occasions, a day in the office, or a night out with the girls or certain types of reenactments they might be just the thing.
- What condition issues should you look for (and avoid) when shopping for vintage shoes? Cracking, scuffs, worn out insoles, broken straps, etc. Avoid leather that looks and feels brittle. Some issues can be fixed with a bit of leather conditioning or polish while other can not.
- What about the details? Heel height, pretty details like bows or buckles.
- And most importantly, how do you know what size shoe to buy?  

So how do you know what size vintage shoes to buy?

It's true that shoe sizes haven't changed too much over the years, unlike clothing sizes. A size 7 vintage shoe, for example, will be roughly the same size as a modern size 7. As a general rule, dress shoes do run a little narrow. And this is especially true of most vintage shoes the market today, so you will want to keep that in mind if you have wide feet like I do. If you have the option of trying a pair of shoes on before you buy them, excellent. But when shopping online, obviously you won't be able to. Keep in mind that the majority of online shop owners will not except returns for shoes that don't fit properly. Don't be afraid to ask for more information!

So, to avoid heartaches and headaches alike and know your measurements! 

To figure out your measurements - Stand on a piece of paper and have a friend trace the outline of your foot. Take a measuring tape and measure length of your foot from the tip of your big toe to your heel, then across the ball, or widest part of your foot. Check out this helpful video

Shopper's Tips - To ensure a good fit, measure of a pair of your own comfortable shoes across the ball of the foot (the widest point), and from toe to heel. Take both of these measurements on the inside on the shoes. A flexible ruler is helpful. Compare these measurements to those of the vintage shoes you think you want to purchase. It's a good idea to measure a pair of shoes that have the same heel height as the pair you're shopping for. If you like your shoes to fit snug or a little on the loose side, take that onto account.

Condition issues - As with any article of vintage clothing, whether it's a hat, a dress, or a pair of shoes, expect some kind of wear. Occasionally you will see NOS - new old stock, or "dead stock" - items in near mint condition. Excellent condition can mean a higher price.

When looking for shoes, take a look first at the soles and then the heels. If no pictures are provided ask to see some so you can see how much wear there is. Check for cracks or other flaws to the soles and heels. If you plan on wearing them for more then the occasional photo shoot this is important. You want to make sure the shoes are sturdy and safe to wear. Worn out insoles can easily be replaced. Scuff marks are no big deal but if there is cracking anywhere on the shoes that could be a problem, particularly with leather shoes as they can become brittle with age. Leather conditioners can help but in some cases the shoes may be beyond repair. Check the buckles (if there are any) and other details such as the stitching or decorative bows to make sure they are secure.

Ask yourself - If there are flaws, can you live with them, considering the age of the shoes of course? Can they easily be fixed? (A bit of polish or leather conditioner, new insoles, etc.) Is it worth the extra cost to have them fixed? If you answer "No" to any of these questions you should probably keep looking.

When in doubt, ask for help!
Don't be afraid to ask questions. When looking for vintage shoes online, I found the way shoes measurement were listed to be a little inconsistent, at least on Etsy. One shop will measure the widest point on the inside of the shoes and other shop across the bottom. Once I knew what I needed for my own measurements, I asked shop owners to clarify how their measurements were taken. Each and every person was extremely help I must say!

Remember, the hunt for the perfect pair of shoes is all part of the fun! :) I hope you find this post helpful.

Vintage Ad Browser

Vintage Ad Browser

10 Vintage Items Worth the Splurge

I learned through Jessica of Chronically Vintage, that Joanna from Dividing Vintage Moments is hosting a giveaway with an interesting twist. She is asking those who want to enter what 10 vintage items they think are worth spending a little extra money on.

Here are my top 10 vintage splurge ideas.

1 - A good vintage coat. Many vintage styles are so classic, they never go out of style.
2 - Cardigan sweater with cute details. It will be something you can wear with pants or a skirt. Versatility is great.
3 - Real pearls!
4 - A good pair of vintage or vintage style shoes.

My 1940s pumps from Etsy

5 - Well fitted two piece suit or dress. More versatility - wear them together or as separates.
6 - A couple pairs of colorful vintage gloves with nice details. These are a fun accessory and can add a splash of color to any outfit.

1950s suit by Swansdown

1940s suit purchased from Morning Glorious Vintage

7 - Vintage patterns! If you can sew you can use the same pattern(s) to make a variety of dresses, skirts, etc to add to your wardrobe. They are also a good investment and be resold easily.

 
8 - Classes or workshops. Ok, I know those don't exactly fit this list. But for someone who doesn't often have the money to buy the real thing, acquiring the skills and knowledge to make vintage or historical style clothing is the next best thing. I love learning how things are made and I enjoy creating. My 18th century shoe workshop was NOT cheap by any means. But if I make more than one pair of shoes I will have made my money back and then some. I spend almost every weekend of the summer at a different living history event so being correctly dressed, from head to toe, is very important to me.

Partially finished pair of 18th century shoes. I started this over a year ago.

9 - Good quality fabrics and notions for creating a vintage or historic look. Things like buttons and buckle might not seem like much of a splurge to some but I think the little things matter. A good stash of these vintage extras will come in handy for a number of projects.

100% silk fabric and antique buckles used to create my 1920s evening dress

10 - I enjoy collecting vintage. So for me, spending a little extra on a few special items to enhance my collection is worth it. If you have been following me on Facebook, you will know my most recent splurges include the President Eisenhower inaugural ball dress I posted about here and a World War II U.S. Navy WAVE uniform. The WAVE uniform was certainly a splurge but the opportunity to own something like that comes up so rarely I couldn't pass it up.

World War II U.S. Navy WAVE uniform

Dress worn to President Eisenhower's inaugural ball

On Etsy, of Course - Searching for Vintage Shoes

RaleighVintage

I've had a lot of people ask me where I got the shoes I wore for the scenic train ride with Cori. My answer, on Etsy! As anyone who loves wearing, collecting, and shopping for vintage items knows, Etsy is both a wonderful - and dangerous - resource. I say dangerous because it's so easy to use and very addicting. :)

It's been interesting and exciting looking at vintage shoe ads and then finding similar (or even identical!) existing shoes in shops and museums.

Here is a perfect example. I'm just green with envy! (Sorry, bad pun!)

Vintage ad for de Nero shoes

A very similar pair from honeytalkvintage

I have since found on Etsy several pairs of 1940s shoes very much like the pair I bought. The bows, flowers, or whatever you want to call them, on the toes are very similar. These kinds of embellishments were very popular. Look at this pair in brown from honeytalkvintage and this pair in green from Columbiatique. What about a pair in black? Want a pair of in red like mine? Check out this pair from SplendoreBoutique 

Naturalizer shoes. Notice the pair on the far left. Source

Another ad for Naturalizer shoes - Source

I've saved so many shoes to my Etsy favorites list. Here are just a few of them. It's great to be able to save items all in one spot, whether you plan to buy them or just to drool over the pictures. That's mainly what I do!! Pictures are free and excellent resources. I figure the chances of me finding another pair of fabulous vintage shoes that actually fit are pretty slim. But it sure is fun to look. :)

For a few shopping tips and help figuring out your vintage shoes size, check out my post, Sizing up Vintage Shoes.

Drool worthy brown and white 1930s heels from CustardHeartVintage

A lovely and practical pair of blue pumps from FemaleHysteria

Rhythm Step shoe ad from 1944 - Source

 This pair from FromEveWithLove already sold but I just had to share them. Red alligator from Saks Fifth Avenue with 4" heels, holy cow! Oh alligator shoes, how I adore you ...

 FromEveWithLove

Pin-up shoes anyone? adoredvintage

 (Please note, I'm not trying to advertise on behave of any of Etsy or any these particular shops. I just wanted to share some beautiful shoes.)

Sizing Up Vintage Shoes

So you're looking for that perfect pair of vintage shoes. Something from the 1930s, 1940s, or 1950s perhaps. You are ready to start shopping! But wait, consider a few questions first.

- Are you looking for a particular style to meet the requirements of a particular period of time? And if so, what style? Be sure to do your homework so you know what you are looking at when you start shopping.
- How often do you plan to wear the shoes? Everyday, only for special events, not at all you just want a pretty pair of shoes to look at.
- What condition issues should you look for (and avoid) when shopping for vintage shoes? Cracking, scuffs, worn out insoles, broken straps, etc.
- What about the details? Heel height, pretty details like bows or buckles.
- And most importantly, how do you know what size shoe to buy?

Group of ladies trying on shoes, c 1942. - Source LIFE

So how do you know what size vintage shoes to buy?

Morning Glorious Vintage 

It's true that vintage shoe sizes haven't changed too much over the years, unlike clothing sizes. A size 7 vintage shoe, for example, will be roughly the same size as a modern size 7. Roughly, but not exact. As a general rule, dress shoes do run a little narrow. And this is especially true of vintage shoes, so you will want to keep that in mind if you have wide feet like I do. If you have the option of trying a pair of shoes on before you buy them, excellent. But when shopping online, obviously you won't be able to. Keep in mind that the majority of online shop owners will not except returns for shoes that don't fit properly. They take the time to list the necessary information and it is up to the shopper to know what size will work best for her.

So, to avoid heartaches and headaches alike - know your measurements, know your measurements, know your measurements!

Shoes that are too narrow or too tight will not be comfortable. Ouch!

My pair of red peep toe shoes were marked as a US size 6/EUR 36. However, I tend to wear a modern size 7. Depending on the style and type of shoes I can wear anything from a 6 1/2 to a 7 1/2

Shopper's Tips - Go by the actual measurements of the shoes and NOT by the listed size.
To ensure a good fit, measure of a pair of your own comfortable shoes across the ball of the foot (the widest point), and from toe to heel. Take both of these measurements on the inside on the shoes. A flexible ruler is helpful. Compare these measurements to those of the vintage shoes you think you want to purchase. It's a good idea to measure a pair of shoes that have the same heel height as the pair you're shopping for. Don't measure your own feet to compare with the shoes' measurements on the site. Don't forget to leave yourself a little wiggle room! If you like your shoes to fit snug or a little on the loose side, take that onto account.

Trying on shoes before you buy is best but not always an option. Image source

Depending on the style of the shoes, measuring the inside width can be difficult but this is important to know. For my own feet to be happy, I need an inside measurement of 3" to 3 1/4". I looked at several pairs of 1940s shoes online that listed the widest point at 3" only to find out that actual inside measurement was way less than that. If I plan to wear a pair vintage shoes anything less than 3" on the inside is an absolute no go for me. However, for display purposes the sizing wouldn't matter.

When in doubt, ask for help!
Don't be afraid to ask questions. When looking for vintage shoes online, I found the way shoes measurement were listed to be a little inconsistent, at least on Etsy. One shop will measure the widest point on the inside of the shoes and other shop across the bottom. Once I knew what I needed for my own measurements, I asked shop owners to clarify how their measurements were taken. Each and every person was extremely help I must say!

Good shop owners will be happy to answer all your questions and help assist in finding a pair of shoes that fit.
The Lady Eve - Glamourdaze

Condition issues:
As with any article of vintage clothing, whether it's a hat, a dress, or a pair of shoes, expect some kind of wear. Occasionally you will see NOS - new old stock, or "dead stock" - items in near mint condition. Excellent condition can mean a higher price.

When looking for shoes, take a look first at the soles and then the heels. If no pictures are provided ask to see some. You should look at the amount of wear on the soles. Check for cracks or other flaws to the soles and heels. If you plan on wearing them for more then the occasional photo shoot this is important. You want to make sure the shoes are sturdy and safe to wear. Worn out insoles can easily be replaced. Scuff marks on the soles are no big deal but if there is cracking anywhere on the shoes that could be a problem, particularly with leather shoes as they can become brittle with age. Leather conditioners can help but in some cases the shoes may be beyond repair. Check the buckles (if there are any) and other details such as the stitching or decorative bows to make sure they are secure.

Ask yourself - If there are flaws, can you live with them, considering the age of the shoes of course? Can they easily be fixed? (A bit of polish or leather conditioner, new insoles, etc.) Is it worth the extra cost to have them fixed? If you answer "No" to any of these questions you should probably keep looking.

Remember, the hunt for the perfect pair of shoes is all part of the fun! :) I hope you find this post helpful.

Daniel Green Footwear ad from Vintage Ad Browser

Vintage Ad Browser

Vintage Ad Browser

Suit by Swansdown, Jr.

Suit label

I finally had the chance to download pictures from my camera today, something I've been meaning to do for awhile now. Anyway, here are some pictures of my 1950s suit that I promised to share. I also have pictures of 1930s and 1940s outfits that were taken the same time but I will save those for another post. 

The suit is wool and cashmere blend by Swansdown, Jr. of New York. It's very soft and cozy to wear. I worn the jacket to work last week and received a lot of complements. I have a reception for an art show later this week and I'm thinking of wearing the skirt with a white cardigan. I tried doing some research on Swansdown but wasn't able to find very much information online. Oh well, I did find some really cool images though. :)

Front and back views of the suit.

Me trying to be a Vogue model but failing and making a funny face instead.

Thank you Cori for your help and patience in taking pictures.


Suit by Swansdown, Jr. of New York - Twice Upon A Time

Silk Handkerchief - Morning Glorious Vintage 

Fur wrap - Prancing Horse Antiques

Hat, gloves, and pin -Thrifted

Will Steinman Original - Vintage Prom

I'm taking a little break from the 18th century to focus a bit more on other interests. Not to worry, I'm still working on that new 18th century gown which will (hopefully) be finished soon. I will also continue researching for my posts on portrait miniatures of British soldiers.(Part one and two.)

Today's fun vintage finds are a selection of Will Steinman prom and cocktail dresses from Vintageous. Gorgeous! I love all the layers of tulle!

Vintageous

Will Steinman Original was a formal dress company that specialized in making prom, formal, debutante and wedding dresses. The company was active from the 1920s through the 1960s. A signature feature of Will Steinman that I have seen so far is a wide waistband often accompanied by a large bow/sash.

Search online for "Will Steinman Original", "Will Steinman vintage" or "Will Steinman dresses" and you will find an array of fluffy brightly colored gowns!

Vintageous

Vintageous

Vintageous

Vintageous

Case of the F*#% its! - I bought new fabric

Every once in awhile this happens and can't be helped. I'm sure there are many of you who, like me, enjoy making new historical costumes and can sympathize.

You want to make something new to add to your historical wardrobe. But you're on a budget and really shouldn't be spending money on fabric, notions, etc. This inevitably leads to the should I/can I debate about trying to justify your possible purchase. You find yourself making frequent visits to that certain online fabric store so you can drool over that perfect fabric, imaging the awesome garment you want to make.

You ask yourself:

"What makes this fabric better/different than what I already have waiting in the stash?" 

"What's the smallest amount of fabric I can order and still squeeze out that gown?" 

                                                  "Do I really need to buy more fabric?"
                      (This last question is of course silly, and can often be completely ignored. :) )

You say:
                            "Well I've been good and haven't bought new fabric in X amount of time."
                                           "I do have that special event coming up this summer."
                              "I have a birthday coming up so it could be a present to myself."
                                                           "I deserve something new!"

Finally you say "F*#% it!" And buy that new fabric.

That's just what happened to me. I've been eying this fabric from Wm Booth Draper since it was added to their website last fall. I was good and even ordered a sample of the fabric first to make sure I liked the weight and scale of the design. And that was months ago! Last week I finally ordered enough to make a new gown, which I fully admit I don't really need but really want to make. It's a nice weight and drapes beautifully. I can't wait to get started!

Wm Booth Draper

Purple floral prints show up again and again in newspaper ads of the 18th century. They are described repeatedly in runaway descriptions as well as in the Foundling Museum's Billet Books. Hallie has some nice posts about the billet book on her blog and another post here on purple linen.

On a mission...

It's been snowing/raining all morning and the roads are currently a mess. It made for some interesting drive at 6:00 am this morning, that's for sure! But the little bit of blue sky and sunshine I see out my office window are giving me hope. I'm planning on visiting a few thrift stores and antique shops this weekend and I have a mission! I'm on the look out for a few vintage items; new hat (1940ish), and a new wool coat (preferably 1940s or 1950s). Here's kind of what I'm looking for. Unfortunately, this one sold in 2009. Sad.

1940s coat from DearGoldenVintage

Also on the look out for something 1930s.

1930s white crepe dress, DearGoldenVintage

What I don't need is any more fur ... unless of course its a hat, because I NEED one to go with the mink coat I bought this summer. :)