Friday, July 31, 2015

"Style Show Salutes Navy"

Although the article below indicates the last fashion styles for spring 1941, they can easily work for a summer wardrobe as well. Who doesn't enjoy vintage nautical fashions? I've included LOTS of pictures in this post! Enjoy!!

Looking shipshape and fabulous, 1939. #vintage 1930s 1940s summer nautical vintage fashion style color photo print ad model magazine 40s shorts casual sportswear jeans scarf tshirt
Sailor girl, 1940s | For more Naughty Nautical, click here:

From the Dallas Morning News, January 9, 1941.
First Spring Style Show Salutes Navy. Anchors Aweigh Played as Models Parade at Lunch. By Alma Cunningham.
The United States Navy got a salute Wednesday noon in the first Neiman-Mercus spring style show at the Baker Hotel Mural Room, and well they might for all that fashion has borrowed from the sailor's uniform. To the tune of Anchors Aweigh, pretty models tripped across the platform where two of Uncle Sam's sailors stood with a rigidity that would have shamed a cigar store Indian, only to follow a cutie wearing one of the new middy-blouse dresses.

1930s Dress / Late 30s Tie Front Sailor Dress by GuermantesVintage Women's vintage spring summer fashion history historical clothing nautical
The middy, the veritable uniform for girls a decade or more ago, pops up again this season in various adaptations for women with an egle eye on high fashion. Two styles were featured in the show, one a white crepe dress, short sleeved, with an all-around knife-pleated skirt and a navy blue sailor's collar, the other a navy blue sheer woolen with long sleeves, wide pleats at the front and back of the skirt, and a red neckerchief.

A lovely 1940s sailor inspired outfit and rolled updo.
Nautical picnic: paper plate ad, 1941.  Maker: Nickolas Muray.  George Eastman House Collection.
1940s  Nautical Fashion: 1940S Woman, 1940S Dresses, Sailors Dresses, 1940S Nautical, 1940S Fashion, 1940S Forty, 1940S Style, 1940 S Fashion, 1940S Sailors
Life Magazine, 1940
Miami Beach Fashion 1940
Miami Beach Fashion 1940 Life magazine
Lots of great images from Life Magazine, 1940, winter on Miami Beach.
 Life Magazine, 1940
Hollywood starlets, Barbara Bates, Karen Randle, Poni Adams, Kerry Vaughn and Jean Trent c. 1945
Hollywood starlets, Barbara Bates, Karen Randle, Poni Adams, Kerry Vaughn and Jean Trent c. 1945
"Sailor Girl" 1930s/1940s :::: Looks just like my grandmother did in the late 4o's!
Slender Line Retained.
The slender line of skirts, even in all-around pleated ones, has been carefully retained.Those of the wide pleats have been designated with straight panels at the sides to give an illusion of slenderness, a neat bit of strategy from the fashion front.

A mess-jacketed suit in a navy blue woolen with spaced red pin stripes, braided lapels, eagles on hats, gold buttons on jackets, Fleur-de-lis and the chevron on sleeves, little caps worn gob-fashion on the back of the head - these are fashion's newest pets.

Solid rows of silver one-inch buttons are used by Louise Barnes Gallagher on one of her navy blue mesh suits. The suit shown had a straight skirt, topped by a jacket with sloping shoulders. Rows of buttons marched down the front of the jacket, across the top of the two pockets, and sailed around the outside of the sleeves just below the shoulder line.

Navy ensembles for the the most part were shown with navy accessories, and relied on the sparkling golf emblems or the buttons for the accent. However, there was a sprinkling of navy with yellow, with bright Kelly green, with brilliant red, and again with the palest of beige.

1940s headscarves, hair poking out bottom
Adorable 1940s nautical fashions from Life magazine.
(more on my blog)
1940s nautical fashions from Life magazine

"Yeomanette" shoes Sears, 1941 Tuppence Ha'penny: 1940 S, 1940S Fashion, Vintage Fashion, Nautical Shoes, 1940S Shoes, Nautical Fashion, Sailors Style, 40S 50S, 1941 Seared
"Yeomanette" shoes Sears, 1941
Kedettes Womens Shoes (1941)
Simple Navy Dress.
A simple navy dress, for instance, was worn under a casual beige coat, and the model's shoes were red. A double-breasted navy blue dress with a cowhide belt was worn with a white camel's-hair coat, the sleeve of which sported a sparkling gold Fleur-de-lis.
Another ensemble combined a pink and white printed crepe dress topped by a navy blue coat lined with the dress crepe and the model wore a pale blue felt hat stabbed with a tiny red feather a the front of the upturned brim. A jaunty Kelly green jacket was worn with a straight navy skirt and white blouse. The green was repeated in the band around a navy hat.
Cite for evening wear, come daffodil time, were short red wool capes over white dinner dresses, navy blue capes with red linings and gold emblems, worn over white wool dinner dresses with gold epaulets.


Life Magazine, 1940

Thursday, July 9, 2015

1940s Blouses by Du Barry

Here is another outfit post from the MAAM WWII weekend. I have more more planned but I'm still waiting on a few photos from a photographer. (I had the opportunity to do a really awesome photo shoot!! I can't wait to share!) Be sure to check out the official event photo gallery, you'll spot a few photos of Cori and I in there if you look carefully. Although I only ending up wearing one, I made myself two new blouses using Du Barry 5172. This is a great little pattern that dates from 1941. I think it's my favorite blouse pattern by far! It incorporates many of those vintage details that I really enjoy.

The sleeves have a set of small pleats at the ends and little pouf shoulder. The front of the blouse is constructed with shoulder yokes and the collar is a simple rounded shape. Another thing I like about this blouse is that instead of being straight from underarm to hem, the blouse is cut to fit the torso. My first blouse was made from a white figured cotton muslin that I purchased on sale from Joann's Fabrics. (Note to self. Gotta get some pictures!) I wanted to trim the white blouse with lace as shown on the pattern envelope but couldn't fine any I liked. The red and white stripe is a cotton fabric that came from my mom's fabric stash.

Photo by Neal Howland

Photo by Neal Howland
Although the pattern doesn't say to, I decided to cut the shoulder yokes and placket for the buttons on the bias. This helped to break up the stripes and add a little more visual interest to the blouse. I had a couple people ask me about working with stripes. I personally really like working with stripes and plaids for some reason. Most of my historical clothing is made using stripes, checks and plaids. (see my cross barred gown.) Stripes can be your best friend or worst enemy. Be patient. I often find that stripes can really be helpful when lining up pattern pieces. It can be fun challenge! Depending on your project you may need to allow for some extra fabric if you are worried about matching up the stripes like I did with my Dorr Mill Hoodie. Pin carefully! Then baste or sew. Craftsy has some good tips here, there are also a few here as well.

My skirt was made using Du Barry 5296. I love this skirt! It has a slim fit and a generous pleat in back for easy of movement. I have a lovely blue and white pin striped wool that I want to use to make the whole suit as shown on the envelope. The blue linen I used was left over from an 18th century frock coat that I made for my brother a few years back. It wrinkles easily but linen is so comfortable to wear especially when the weather is hot! This skirt has become a good vintage basic and mixes and matches well with other items I have. I've worn this skirt about 5 or 6 times now!

For the dance Saturday night I changed into my linen pants (Simplicity 1306) and flats. After wearing heels all day, something I'm not use it, my Bleyer Liddy Hoppers felt like heaven. They are super comfortable dance shoes! I bought mine when I was still in high school and dancing all the time. (Wow, how many years ago now?! Yeah, it's been a few.) Sadly I don't get to do much dancing these days so I'm soooo out of practice. Cori doesn't really dance and the closest swing dance scene is a good 2 hour drive from home. But I did manage to get him out on the dance floor that night, it's a lot of fun dancing to a live band!

One of the official event photographers, Big Bloc Photography LLC, took these photos of us and our friend Max beside the MAAM's B-25J bomber Briefing Time. You can see his complete gallery, along with tons of other great photos from the air show here. I love the Kodachrome coloring! Cori and Max are wearing their 1940s LADP uniforms. They were the only two from the police group able to make it to the airshow this year. We're hoping for a bigger turn out next year.

Outfit Details
Blouse - Made by me, Du Barry 5172
Skirt - Made by me, Du Barry 5296 
Pants - Made by me,  Simplicity 1306
Shoes - Wingtips from Blyer
Victory Pin - local antique shop

Photo by Neal Howland
Summary of the Patterns
Fabrics: Cottons for blouses, linen for skirt
Pattern: Du Barry 5172 (blouse) and Du Barry 5296 (skirt)
Year: 1941
Notions: Buttons, thread, and snaps, zipper and matching lace hem tape for skirt
How historically accurate is it? Pretty darn good! Cotton is perfect for the blouses. I don't know how popular linen was used for clothing but it's what I had and I love it.
Any tricky parts to the pattern? The button holes for the blouses. I dislike them but I'm getting better the more I do.
Did you change anything? Surprisingly, no. Both patterns went together very well. I had some fitting issues with the waist of the skirt but nothing major.
Time to complete: About a four hours for each blouse including buttons and button holes. About the same for the skirt
First worn: June 2014
Total cost: About $6 for each pattern, less then $10 for the white fabric. Buttons, striped fabric and linen fabric from the stash.
Notes: Linen does wrinkle easily but it's so comfortable especially when the weather is hot. I love this skirt and need to make another!
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