An Old Project - 1770s Stays

Today I'd like to share another project, long over due. This post has been sitting in my draft fold since I started blogging. Oh my! I do hope you pardon the crummy photos, I took them with my cell phone. They are not great but at least they serve as some kind of documentation of the construction of my stays.

Stays are a crucial foundation garment to any 18th century wardrobe. They give you support and that great period correct shape. In my first few years of reenacting I didn't wear stays. I didn't think I needed them nor did I have the money or knowledge to purchase or make a pair of my own. I soon learned otherwise. 

My first pair of stays were made using the JP Ryan pattern. I have used a couple different JP Ryan patterns and for the most part found them easy to use. You get a fairly accurate looking historical garment even though you are using modern sewing techniques. I felt this was a fairly good pattern with easy to follow instructions. The pattern pieces fit together well and I found I didn't need to make many adjustments.

JP Ryan stays pattern

I used a cotton canvas for the lining and a linen cotton blend for the outer fabric. A good friend of mine makes baskets so getting basket caning to use for boning was easy. The basket caning was a little wider than I wanted so I had to trim each piece to the right width. For the binding I used thin off-white leather. It was a little on the heavy side but not too bad to work with. I set out to make my first pair of stays all by hand ... but after I finished stitching the boning channels on the front two panels I gave up and used the sewing machine. 

They turned out well, are fairly accurate in appearance, and have held up well after several years of use. But after some more research, I was determined my next pair of stays would be as accurate as possible! This meant using more authentic materials and completely hand sewing them! A daunting task for sure but I felt I was up to the challenge.

Stays, 1770-1780 V&A

I mentioned this was an older project, yes? Well, these stay were started at a Hive workshop in 2011! The workshop began with some background information – who wore stays, what were made of, and how they changed throughout the 18^th century.  Hallie Larkin, who not only makes stays as part of her sewing business, also collects originals and had a few examples at the workshop. This is part of the reason I love collecting vintage and antique clothing of my own. As enjoyable as it is to examine original items in museums, online, or in books, nothing beats seeing these things up close and personal! After a brief discussion of what kind of stays each of us wanted to make, it was time for our fittings. For my new pair of stays I choose to make a more “fashionable” set from the 1770s.  

I should mention that one of the original pairs of stays on hand were from the 1770s; a lovely, but faded, pink pair with blue binding and stiffened with baleen. Not only that but one of the reproduction pairs available to try on were an exact copy of these. I’m not sure which was more exciting, trying on the reproduction pair of stays with the originals right there beside me or knowing that I’m the same size as a woman who lived 200 years ago. :)

Materials Used

Linen interface

Checked linen lining

Blue worsted wool

Basket reeds for boning and metal stay for bust support

Cardstock stiffener

Leather binding

Linen thread

1/4" linen tape

All of the materials were provided as part of the workshop with the exception of the blue worsted wool which I purchased from Burnley and Trowbridge. For anyone interested in making their own set of 18th century stays, Smith and Larkin at The Sign of the Golden Scissors offers a variety stays kits and supplies.

Please pardon the crummy quality of these next photos. Unlike the JP Ryan pattern, each section of the stays was assembled individually. The wool fashion fabric is placed on top of the heavy linen interfacing, the boning channels are marked and then stitched. I used Tiger Tape to help me keep the channels nice and straight. After all the pieces - 2 fronts, 2 sides, 2 side backs, and 2 backs - were completed it was time to start attaching them together. It's difficult to see in these pictures but each section is whipped together leaving a generous seam allowance should they ever need to be altered later on. Something the JP Ryan pattern does not do.

These really hold their shape!! You can see the seam allowance is just tacked in place.

Here you can see the almost completed stays. At this point, before adding the binding and lining, I was able to try them on for fit. You may notice that the eyelets are off set, (something seen on originals) this so they line up straight when you spiral lace your stays. This particular style of stays are cut a little lower in the front and back compared to my first pair. The "points" of the front sections sit just above the bust line. Most high fashion gowns of the 1770s and 1780s were cut lower in front so these stays accommodates that fashion.

And the inside without the lining.

This photo, from an older post, shows the white linen tape covering the seams and the white leather binding. At some point I will take some better photos of these stays. I also want to do some comparison photos wearing these and my JP Ryan stays. These fit SOOOO much better and are super comfortable to wear for long periods of time.

A Soft Wrap Corset

This soft wrap style corset was listed for sale, and has since been sold, by Vintage Textile. Unfortunately, at the time I saved these pictures I didn't think to copy all the information that accompanied them. I believe the date listed for this garment was 1800 to 1810, but it could have been as late as 1820. It's made of cotton and is entirely hand stitched. Note to self, in the future save all information!

Update 8/14/2012 - I searched my files and found that I did save the information originally listed with this corset on Vintage Textile! Here it is:

Rare soft wrap corset, c.1810-1820

Some early corsets (stays) are prized by collectors because they are elaborately embellished; others are valued for their rare form. This soft, wrap-style under garment is a special find for the collector who already has the more typical corded style with center busk.

Our soft wrap corset was likely meant more for modesty under a sheer dress than for significant support. The style, which is rarely found, came from a New England collection.

The corset is fashioned from ivory cotton and is completely hand stitched. Gathered bust inserts and triangular side-hip inserts are the only shaping. The corset is laced only at the upper back opening. Waistline ties wrap around and pin in front.

The condition is excellent.

It measures: 32" bust, 27" waist, 32" hip, and 16" from shoulder to hem

Source - Vintage Textile

This style corset would have been worn by a lady who needed minimal support. There are small gussets for the bust as well at gussets at the hips. The straps are well out of the way to accommodate the broad necklines of the time period. Also, notice the lack of a busk pocket on this corset.

Source - Vintage Textile

Gussets for bust. Source - Vintage Textile

Detail of back lacing. Source - Vintage Textile

Note the small side gussets at the hips. Source - Vintage Textile

In the future, I may try to make one of these for myself as it looks pretty simple as well as comfortable. I do have a few more picture of this corset that I can post if people are interested. 

Preparing for an 1812 event ... eventually

Ladies Magazine January 1812  London

As far as my living history hobby goes, my main focus is the 1750s to 1770s. However, like many of my reenacting friends, I am beginning to take a more serious interest in the early 19th century. Specifically the years 1800 to about 1820. Myself and a group of friends are working to create a new unit representing the 1st Battalion of 27th (Inniskilling) Regiment of Foot with the goal of attending the bicentennial of the Battle of Waterloo to be held in Belgium in 2015.
 
With the bicentennial of the War of 1812 being commemorated in New York, New England, and Canada over the next couple of years there will be many opportunities to attend related events. My first War of 1812 event will be in August at the Lake Champlain Maritime Museum.

So what exactly does that mean for me? Well, a whole new wardrobe! Which excites me and fills me with dread all at the same time. It's exciting because I love the research involved in planning a new outfit, fabric shopping, and sewing. However, I dread this task because it does mean lots of research and sewing. I'm not as familiar with the 1812 era as I am with that of the 18th century. And when I say "a whole new wardrobe", I mean exactly that. There are few items of clothing that I use for 18th century events that will work for 1812. This is because the fashions of the 18teens change drastically from those of the 1750s to 1770s.

Fashions of 1740 compared to those of 1807. Engraving by Charles Williams

Fashion plate of English and French costumes for 1815

So what will I be able to use from my 18th century clothing? The same shift - at least for now. The same stockings and handkerchiefs and that's really about it. My bonnet, mitts, and cloak are "close enough" it get me through my first events.

What will I need that's new? A shift (eventually), stays, under petticoat, gown, cap, chemisette, spencer or pelisse for cooler events, and shoes. That's a lot of sewing!

Silk damask pelisse, c.1815-20, Vintage Textiles

There are several commercial patterns available for gowns, stays, etc. Like those of any historic period, some patterns seem to be better than others. I would like to avoid purchasing new patterns so I think my plan for now will be to draft my own. I'll most likely use one of the gowns in Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion I. I would like to make a bib front gown as I think it will be easy to put on without assistance, although I do like the look of the gowns that close in the back. Below is a nice example of a bib front gown from Vintage Textiles.

Silk faille, bib-front dress, c.1800-1810, Vintage Textiles

Silk faille, bib-front dress, c.1800-1810

Stays will still be an issue but I've pretty much mastered the art of putting on a pair of back lacing stays by myself in a tent. :) I plan to use the pattern for stays provided by Katherine on her blog The Fashionable Past. These are closer to 1820 then 1812 but I think they be a good make do pair to get me started. Of course all this sewing will have to wait until I finish a few other projects.

For those of you who have already created 1812 era clothing I have a few questions:
-What patterns did you use (or create yourself) to make your clothing and what did you like or dislike about those patterns?
-Which type of gown do you find easier to make and/or wear (bib front or back closing)?
-What is your favorite thing about the Regency time period?